Hot springs up the In Shuck to Hurley

After spending a quiet night, watched an old Western on the Mac, cooked breakfast and packed up.  Heading north on the In Shuck road, really a gravel highway, wide with hardly a bump.  There's no need for a high clearance vehicle let alone 4 wheel drive capabilities on this portion, the hot springs can be reached with ease if you drive south from the Duffy Lake road.

Drove by the Skookumchuck Hot Springs, aka St Agnes Wells, since the two hot springs were so close i passed on the visit.  After a few more miles came to Hwy 99 aka the Duffy and headed to Pemberton on pavement.

From Pemberton travelled west, through spud Valley to the start of the Hurley.  Hurley Pass as its know is a rough gravel, dirt, and boulder strewn road that climbs from the Pemberton Valley to Braelorne high in the mountains.  Closed for much of the year due to snowfall it traditionally opens on the May long weekend but this particular year didn't open until mid June.  It's worth the drive, the mountains are beautiful with year round glaciers all around.  You can also take a side trip to the Lillooet River, pretty good fishing along the banks.

It's not particularly a long drive however, due to the condition takes several hours to complete the journey.  Make sure you have plenty of fuel, and supplies, camping is available on any of the side trails for my favourite cost - nothing.  Insect repellent is a must.  Watch out for wildlife, and bears can be found along the way...

Braelorne is an old mining town, the mining head office is a Hotel of sorts and there's an eatery in town too.  Population, 35 hearty souls but there's miners in them hills, still searching for gold.  For me it's a quick drive through, heading south east past Carpenter Lake to Lillooet.  The road from Braelorne is paved, then gravel, then paved again.  I believe this is due to the several Native reservations one passes through but not positive to the exact reason.  Travelling alongside the Bridge River there are several viewpoints along the road where one can take great pictures looking down from the road.

Shortly before reaching Lillooet (check the fuel tank, there's a long way to the next fueling station so a drive to Lillooet might  be in order) there is a bridge.  Named the Bridge River bridge is where the next portion of the off road adventure continues.  Turn left, unless of course you're coming from Lillooet (turn right) and head up the hill for about sixty miles.  This dirt road parallels the might Fraser River heading in a north western direction.  You can see the highway from across the valley, there is also train tracks from the CPR visible.

After a couple of hours on the road you come across a signpost stating Big Bar reaction ferry.  Turn here.  It's advised you go down the hill in low gear.  The trail is very sandy and if your vehicle is equipped with ABS this steep hill can be somewhat frightening.  Halfway down the trail the river is visible and you can see the bright orange ferry waiting for its next passenger (you).  Once you reach the bottom (told ya it can be scary) honk the horn, sometimes the ferry operator doesn't see your vehicle, and he'll cross the river to pick you up.  Total capacity for the ferry is one truck, or a couple of motorcycles but I've never seen a lineup...   By the bye, the "Captain" is a crotchety old fart, just ignore him, you'd be pissed if that was your job...

Once across you head up the dirt road, this time not so sandy so traction isn't a problem.  You should continue to see wildlife here, California Bog Horn sheep, and plenty of deer.  drive on and watch for signs to the Gang Ranch.  I usually drive to High Bar, it's south of the ferry and camp there for the night.  Free.   There must have been a ferry crossing there, 'cause there's a road on each side of the river.

If you have the time, continue on, you will drive past a Native Reservation called Canoe Creek, please show some respect and drive slowly, it's very dusty in the dry Summer heat.  Remember, You'll be camping by the Fraser River nearby, no sense in upsetting the locals when you're spending the night in their neighbourhood...

Around 90 minutes, could be more because there's Big Horn all along the dirt road you come to a sign that states "Williams Lake".  Don't turn there...   Continue on, down the hill, you can see the single lane bridge and the Mighty Fraser ahead.  Cross the metal bridge, be sure to stop and take pictures of the "mighty Fraser", to the south you can see where I recommend you camp for the night - hint - it's free!

Once the bridge is crossed climb the hill, near the top you come upon a fork, keep left toward the Empire Valley or, if you want to continue on, turn right for the Gang Ranch.  We stay left and drive to a viewpoint and nature sign that states "Churn Creek protected area.  From here you have several options.  Continue on the dirt road to the Empire Ranch (no), follow the same road but drive to the camping area you can see by the river (no) or, drive down the goat path you see to the left, yes, that rough skinny trail, don't worry, it looks bad but believe me it's worth the drive.  Camping on the river is awesome, likely no one is down there and, best of all, it's FREE.

Spend the night, tomorrow we drive through the Gang Ranch and hopefully are able to get into the old Farwell Canyon Ranch.

 The second hot springs (st agnes well).

 North of Pemberton, snow still on the mountains in late June.

 Lillooet river, Canada geese taking flight...

 Eagle waiting for his dinner.

Lillooet River

 View from the road to Big Bar ferry

 Near Big Bar

 Here's the lookout over Churn Creek.  The road leads to the Empire Valley ranch, to the left is camping via the lesser road (towards the Mighty Fraser) and turning around you'll see...

 The goat path. Drive down here, it's worse than it looks and at the bottom...

you can camp there.  Nice spot, huh?  38 degrees C or 100F take your pick.  But it's a dry heat, doesn't seem a bit over 97F...  I hiked all the way up to take this picture, oh yeah, almost forgot, the Mighty Fraser in the background.  One of the few areas in BC where cacti grow.  A favourite spot for me.

Part deux, West side to the Gang Ranch

It should be noted, even though the destination wasn't planned my vehicle was prepared, Armed with tools, plenty of food and water (usually a two week supply) extra fuel (in this case 25litres the minimum  ever carried on board) and air pump capable of sixty PSI.  Off road maps both paper and GPS, lantern, high powered flashlight, knife hiking accessories, axe portable camping supplies.  You never know when you need to leave the vehicle, carrying portable equipment may make a three or four day hike out the difference, be prepared.

Anyway, off we went.  Additional information: The use of "we" is confusing, I refer, of course, to my camper, it's an extension of me yet stand alone, we have travelled may miles together so...  Once again, heading in a Northerly direction it was my intention to pass Port Douglas at the head of the Lake and camp out at the Hot Springs north of PD, on the In Shuck forestry road.

The road, Harrison - Lillooet forestry road to be specific is very rough.  With 4x4 portions that were driven in low gear 1st or 2nd.  It took me several hours at walking pace to cover the most difficult portion, literally crawling over large boulders, down deep dips, on more than one occasion I had to back up to allow oncoming vehicles and one extreme section made a fellow oncoming  traveller drive in reverse for more than a kilometre, it was impossible for me do do so.  However, both the challenge and the scenery were worthwhile, passed bears, countless deer and even a Roosevelt Elk spotted from a distance.

Sometime around noon I came upon a huge area where they are constructing a new dam and roadway, I assume it's an extension of the Carpenter Lake dam northwest of Lillooet near Braelorne.  Amazing to see such huge undergoing but at the time didn't realize the In Shuck road was so accessible from the Pemberton direction.  Not far from the dam (damn?) road, I saw Port Douglas,  now a small predominately Native Community, it was once the riverboat connection from New Westminster around 1856.  There the gold seekers walked to Lillooet and onward to the gold properties of the Fraser River and ultimately Barkerville.  Prior to entering Port Douglas passing a logging operation scarring the otherwise pristine valley.  Nothing to see of historical value remains in PD, but after reading of its significance a hundred a fifty years ago, felt a kinship with the miners of old.

From there travelled the now wide gravel road to a sign where we once again drove a bumpy trail to the Hot Springs.  It's now a Forestry pay site, for 13.00 bucks I was shown to a numbered campsite and advised by Alistair the camp supervisor, generators were forbidden.  After showing him he couldn't hear the genny from thirty metres and, since we were the only two inhabitants in the entire site he relinquished and allowed usage, thank you Alistair ( a fellow scot whom i teased with my own fine public school Edinburgh accent...

The Springs are very natural, the source is visible and since alone, hopped in the pools sans clothing.  There's a river alongside the springs, they provide a natural setting unlike any other Hot Spring I've come across, a must see stop over on the trail - even if you have to spend the camping fee...

Campsite on the lake, ahhh, roughing it camper style!

 Deer on the road, Harrison - Lillooet FSR, 58km

 One of the nicer portions of the FSR, walked up to catch a pic of a Roosevelt Elk...

 Logging site south of Port douglas.

 Crossing one of the many bridges on the FSR, fantastic scenery throughout.

 One of the hot spring pools, in the background is the river/

 Hot spring pool, it was a Wednesday in late June, earlier a couple of adventure riders were there but after they headed onward to Pemberton I remained as the only camper on site.

 More of the beautiful BC scenery, one does become a bit jaded by all the greenery but friends in South America rave about the natural beauty and uninhabited land.

Finally made it to PD, not much to see but historically significant nevertheless...

Harrison Lake to the Gang Ranch off road.

This trip, taken in June / July of 2014 was unplanned.  Originally as a short trip to Harrison Lake to find solitude and changing my mind after a discussion with a logging truck driver on the Harrison Lake west side road.

It had always been my intention to explore beyond the camping site at KM 55 on the west side of Harrison Lake. Having hiked partway up the road on previous trips there was apprehension the road might be more than my vehicle could handle.  Very rough, steep and filled with large loose rock the road had taken it's toll on many unprepared vehicles.

Only a year earlier, a desperate jeep owner had arrived at my campsite on km55 asking for assistance with his jeep.  "My jeep is stuck on a steep portion of the road, can you help me" he said with desperation.  What could one do?  Off we headed, on foot, because I was unaware of the conditions and didn't want to be stuck also.  Saying he was a kilometre or so away we departed with very little in the way of supplies.  About an hour and a half and, 3 or four kms later we came across his jeep.  Nearby were his travel companions, two Aussies - he himself was English and all were completely out of their element.  Very little water, out of food and no extra clothing or emergency supplies.  Typical.

The Jeep was indeed stranded.  the rear drive shaft dragging in the rough road and connection to the rear end sheared completely off.  After climbing under it was apparent a quick repair impossible and suggested we push the vehicle to the side and walk back to my campsite where we had food and supplies to house them for the night.  The driver of the Jeep balked at the idea, one of the Aussies a female protested, she had work the following day (it was a Sunday) and expected a repair performed immediately.  Right.

After wasting a half an hour or so attempting a jury rigged quick fix, another truck drove down the hill. The good thing about travelling these types of roads in Canada is, even when passing another vehicle they usually stop and ask about the road ahead and supply a similar answer to you about whats upcoming their way.  This guy stopped, hopped out of his truck, quickly assessing the problem and offered a ride to my campsite where tools and such were.  We took up his generous offer and myself and the English chap bounced along the trail previously walked.  Grabbing tools and a come along we bounced back to the stricken Jeep.

Light was becoming rare and it looked to me the occupants were going to be spending the evening and night as campmates.  Then, the guy who had stopped came up with a capital idea.  Why don't we disconnect the rear shaft and drive the Jeep in reverse up the steeper portions of the roadway?  We had tried to drive the Jeep in front wheel drive only but the traction poor and the hill steep.  It worked.  He then, offered me a return trip to my campsite since it was going to take the jeep at walking speed over an hour to get to my site.  What a good guy!

On the trip we talked about how unprepared they were and fortunate to find anyone to assist them.  Live and learn...

Anyway, with this in mind, I had yet to travel past km 55 in my camper equipped 4x4, all this changed with a conversation with the logging truck driver.  A car could get there mentioned the driver, little did I realize he meant to his entry to the logging site, which was only 2 kms farther down the road...

Here's a pic of his "rig".  He stopped to check the load and offered his opinion on the road past KM 55.
The blog will continue on with my prepared departure the following day.

introduction to 4x4 off road camping

Hi, my name is Fraser, an avid off road explorer and camper.  I've travelled extensively throughout western North America with my camper equipped 4x4, seeking out remote areas, historically significant ghost towns, quiet and serene camping spots.  It's my intention to show the reader the beauty, and assist with helpful advise exploring such areas.

My travel companion and trusty tool is a camper equipped Ford Ranger FX4.  A 2007 model purchased new with factory installed skid plates, a manual five speed gearbox with high and low option and a 4:10 ratio rear axle. The engine is a 4 litre, six cylinder V6 with 208 hp and 210 lbs ft of torque.  In addition, the rear has overrider leaf springs added to a specification of 1700 lbs, ten ply tyres 265 x 75 x 16 assist both ground clearance and reduce the possibility of punctures.  Also added the appropriate tie downs required to insure the camper stays firmly affixed to the truck.

To the camper, weight 800 lbs, I added 12 volt battery, 400 watt inverter, solar panel and link this to the truck.  Running a 20 lb propane tank, it's equipped with a stove, fridge and heater.  I use a MacBook Pro 13 inch computer which is charged by the aforementioned battery / inverter, solar panel and a Yamaha 2000 watt inverter generator.  Purchasing the camper preowned for a customer of mine, it's a Northern Lite, 610 model manufactured in 1996.  As the name suggests, its lightweight and has a length of 6' 10" not including overhead double bunk.  Spending several months each year in the camper it's become a home away from home.  From - 15 in November while hiking in Bryce Canyon to well over 100 degrees F it has stood me well, without a doubt it's my most favourite possession and will hopefully continue as such well into my retirement years.

In future blogs, I will delve into specific trips, add photos of each and try and give helpful tips while adding pictures to enhance the experience to the reader.  To this I add my thanks for reading my blog and allowing me to exercise my joy of writing, thank you for your time and patience.

The above pic shows the exterior, visible is the Yamaha generator  hooked up, whilst on the roof the solar panel is positioned to catch the suns free energy.  As usual, the campsite is free and I'm completely alone, not a sound except for the peaceful chirps of birds and the gentle lapping of the wind driven waves off the lake.

 Interior shot taken from the bunk, stove and Macbook pro plus ample shelving for storage.

 Another view showing the other side, bench seat and overhead storage, in the forefront to the left the propane fridge, hidden behind the hanging bags.

This angle, taken from the rear door allows the viewer a partial view of the bunk and escape hatch above.  My sound system is positioned beside the aforementioned MBPro.  All in all a comfortable hideaway from the elements of nature when needs arise.